Think: space-occupying shapes and pattern mixing.
Offering a nice diversion from Britain’s political turmoil, the runways at London Fashion Week were far from quiet or boring. In fact, the trends that rose to the top following the just-wrapped, five-day event were rooted in maximalism. From room-filling silhouettes to eccentric pattern-mixing, designers flooded the U.K. capital with fearless fashion for Spring 2020.
Before we turn our gaze to Milan, let’s dive into the key trends that we’ll be wearing from the London collections come spring.
As a color, lavender represents loyalty and as an oil, it promotes relaxation. Perhaps, London designers were trying to evoke the latter by sprinkling their warm-weather collections with hints of the light purple hue in hopes that it could calm their anxiety in a chaos-ridden country. Whether or not this was the case, the soothing shade was everywhere.
Plaid has about a dozen different associations. There’s the prep school plaid à Ralph Lauren and of course the bright-yellow Cher Horowitz-approved plaid that’s plucked from the ’90s. The checked blazers, dresses and pants we saw at the Spring 2020 London shows seemed to check all of those boxes, and then some — and they came in nearly every color of the rainbow.
Call it the Princess Diana Effect if you will: Chic spandex bike shorts popped up on runways all over the city. Though worn without a vintage logo sweatshirt, and sometimes rendered in lace or a shimmery fabric, the thigh-hugging shorts sparked some resemblance to the cycling ones worn by the late royal. But, the Spring 2020 versions are a bit less late-night bodega run and more drinks at a cocktail club.
Next season is all about pattern play. The silks at Ports 1961 were spliced with different floral panels and zebra prints of varying scale. The floral collage work was also seen at Preen and at Erdem. Burberry took a more graphic approach by mixing gingham with black-and-white stripes.
Dressed-up Animal Prints
From leopard-print pleated dresses to glitzy head-to-toe zebra looks, the runways across the pond started to resemble an actual zoo, albeit a fancy one with no foul smells. The perennial trend tends to get a refresh every so often, and this season it got upgraded from cool streetwear to contemporary eveningwear. David Koma dressed up a zebra party frock with sequins and Halpern created a showstopper from masses of micro-pleaded animal-print chiffon.
Continuing on from the Fall 2019 London shows, frothy feathers remained a prevalent theme for Spring 2020. This time around, designers used them to trim the hems of mini skirts and frocks.
Minimalist shapes are out and maximalist, room-filling silhouettes are in: Big, strapless bubbles; swaggering, size-ignoring taffeta and tulle confections; and extra puffy sleeves could all be spotted — from a good 10 miles away — in the British capital.