There are… lots of (actual) black ties.

When the invitation for the Valentino show suggests the theme is “black tie,” one imagines — given Pierpaolo Piccioli‘s track record of celebrity-beloved gowns and the proximity to arguably the biggest red carpet of awards season — that the collection might revolve around eveningwear. But another thing about Piccioli and Valentino (and Piccioli’s Valentino, especially): Though recognized for exquisite quality and reverence for the craft, they’ve also been known to have fun, whether it’s with color, a motif or a theme.

So, the Fall 2023 invitation wasn’t so much a clue to be deciphered, but rather a pretty literal description of what we’d see on the runway on Sunday evening. The show notes said as much, explaining that this is a “codification, not a code,” a challenge to play with words and concepts, to explore what black tie ensembles could look like. It could be an actual black tie with a white dress shirt (and there are many of those in the collection), but it could also be a classic button-down, blown up into the proportions of a gown.

Speaking of gowns, there aren’t really that many for autumn. The focus is on the pieces we lean on every day, according to the show notes. That’s not to say there aren’t spectacular options for the brand’s celebrity friends, many of whom sat front row at the Paris Fashion Week debut — rather, the eveningwear isn’t as delineated; it exists among, with and as the uniform the brand proposes for Fall 2023. It’s a strapless black sheer tulle gown over a white shirt, black tie and black trousers, or a mint green shirtdress with a billowing train.

Uniformity isn’t a bad thing, Piccioli posits in the show notes: “Homogeny, rather than stripping away individuality, can form a frame for each human being, similarities enhancing differences, amplifying nuance.”

What it also does, in the case of this collection, is allow the designer to emphasize some of the visual codes he’s established in his years at Valentino, such as feather accents, 3D florals and all-over embellishments. On the accessories side, it does seem like the brand has seen the online reaction to the runway footwear mishaps the past few seasons, and sent the models out primarily in flat-soled boots and dress shoes, with the occasional stiletto heel. Valentino also reminds us that the Rockstud isn’t going anywhere, adorning the bottom of the season’s new handbags and key footwear styles.

See the full Valentino Fall 2023 collection below.