Sarah Burton offers beautifully made suits, corset tops, leather gowns and more — for all gender expressions.
Photos: Courtesy of Alexander McQueen
As brands are increasingly trying to outdo one another with the biggest runway stunts for social media, Alexander McQueen (who, frankly, did it first) proves that it doesn’t need a viral moment to pull off a show-stopping collection.
Sarah Burton debuted the label’s Fall 2023 collection on Saturday in a minimalist circular venue. Without any flashy gimmicks, the collection came down to what fashion should be: richly sensual clothing with impeccable tailoring.
This season, Burton used that tailoring to eradicate any boundaries between feminine and masculine dressing, inverting gender norms through design: Female-presenting models donned menswear-inspired suiting with extreme proportions, while male-presenting ones wore strapless tops and overcoats with rounded puff sleeves. Thanks to thoughtful construction, each piece looked as if it was molded perfectly to each model, regardless of their gender expression. Fittingly, the collection is titled “Anatomy.”
“Human anatomy, the anatomy of clothing, the anatomy of flowers,” read the show notes. “An exploration of beauty and power through tailoring and tailoring fabrics and a focus on cut, proportion and silhouette.”
Traditionally masculine and feminine pieces were also styled cleverly together: a formal blouse and tie layered below a strapless buttoned corset, while tough leather jackets with gritty zipper detailing were crafted into gowns with delicate silhouettes. In doing so, Burton seems to urge the viewer to question, or rather to abandon, traditional masculine and feminine notions of dressing altogether.
The collection also heavily incorporates one of the brand’s favorite recurring motifs: the orchid. Adut Akech walked in an elaborate silver beaded bustier in the shape of an orchid, with the flower’s petals covering her breasts and flowering into a bustle. Images resembling X-ray versions of the flower are also printed onto the front of a black trench coat, knit onto a ribbed turtleneck dress and beaded onto the hip of a black sequin dress.
See all the looks from the collection, below.
Alexander McQueen Fall 2023. Photo: Courtesy of Alexander McQueen
Alexander McQueen Fall 2023. Photo: Courtesy of Alexander McQueen
Alexander McQueen Fall 2023. Photo: Courtesy of Alexander McQueen
Alexander McQueen Fall 2023. Photo: Courtesy of Alexander McQueen
Alexander McQueen Fall 2023. Photo: Courtesy of Alexander McQueen
Alexander McQueen Fall 2023. Photo: Courtesy of Alexander McQueen
Alexander McQueen Fall 2023. Photo: Courtesy of Alexander McQueen
Alexander McQueen Fall 2023. Photo: Courtesy of Alexander McQueen
Alexander McQueen Fall 2023. Photo: Courtesy of Alexander McQueen
Alexander McQueen Fall 2023. Photo: Courtesy of Alexander McQueen
Alexander McQueen Fall 2023. Photo: Courtesy of Alexander McQueen
Alexander McQueen Fall 2023. Photo: Courtesy of Alexander McQueen
Alexander McQueen Fall 2023. Photo: Courtesy of Alexander McQueen
Alexander McQueen Fall 2023. Photo: Courtesy of Alexander McQueen
Alexander McQueen Fall 2023. Photo: Courtesy of Alexander McQueen
Alexander McQueen Fall 2023. Photo: Courtesy of Alexander McQueen
Alexander McQueen Fall 2023. Photo: Courtesy of Alexander McQueen
Alexander McQueen Fall 2023. Photo: Courtesy of Alexander McQueen
Alexander McQueen Fall 2023. Photo: Courtesy of Alexander McQueen
Alexander McQueen Fall 2023. Photo: Courtesy of Alexander McQueen
Alexander McQueen Fall 2023. Photo: Courtesy of Alexander McQueen
Alexander McQueen Fall 2023. Photo: Courtesy of Alexander McQueen
Alexander McQueen Fall 2023. Photo: Courtesy of Alexander McQueen
Alexander McQueen Fall 2023. Photo: Courtesy of Alexander McQueen
Alexander McQueen Fall 2023. Photo: Courtesy of Alexander McQueen
Alexander McQueen Fall 2023. Photo: Courtesy of Alexander McQueen
Alexander McQueen Fall 2023. Photo: Courtesy of Alexander McQueen
Alexander McQueen Fall 2023. Photo: Courtesy of Alexander McQueen
Alexander McQueen Fall 2023. Photo: Courtesy of Alexander McQueen
Alexander McQueen Fall 2023. Photo: Courtesy of Alexander McQueen
Alexander McQueen Fall 2023. Photo: Courtesy of Alexander McQueen
Alexander McQueen Fall 2023. Photo: Courtesy of Alexander McQueen
Alexander McQueen Fall 2023. Photo: Courtesy of Alexander McQueen
Alexander McQueen Fall 2023. Photo: Courtesy of Alexander McQueen
Alexander McQueen Fall 2023. Photo: Courtesy of Alexander McQueen
Alexander McQueen Fall 2023. Photo: Courtesy of Alexander McQueen
Alexander McQueen Fall 2023. Photo: Courtesy of Alexander McQueen
Alexander McQueen Fall 2023. Photo: Courtesy of Alexander McQueen
Alexander McQueen Fall 2023. Photo: Courtesy of Alexander McQueen
Alexander McQueen Fall 2023. Photo: Courtesy of Alexander McQueen
Alexander McQueen Fall 2023. Photo: Courtesy of Alexander McQueen
Alexander McQueen Fall 2023. Photo: Courtesy of Alexander McQueen
Alexander McQueen Fall 2023. Photo: Courtesy of Alexander McQueen
Alexander McQueen Fall 2023. Photo: Courtesy of Alexander McQueen
Alexander McQueen Fall 2023. Photo: Courtesy of Alexander McQueen
Alexander McQueen Fall 2023. Photo: Courtesy of Alexander McQueen
Alexander McQueen Fall 2023. Photo: Courtesy of Alexander McQueen
Alexander McQueen Fall 2023. Photo: Courtesy of Alexander McQueen
Alexander McQueen Fall 2023. Photo: Courtesy of Alexander McQueen
Alexander McQueen Fall 2023. Photo: Courtesy of Alexander McQueen
Alexander McQueen Fall 2023. Photo: Courtesy of Alexander McQueen
Alexander McQueen Fall 2023. Photo: Courtesy of Alexander McQueen
Alexander McQueen Fall 2023. Photo: Courtesy of Alexander McQueen
Alexander McQueen Fall 2023. Photo: Courtesy of Alexander McQueen
Alexander McQueen Fall 2023. Photo: Courtesy of Alexander McQueen
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Source: Fashionista.com
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