From “Euphoria” eyes to ’80s hair.
After a shortened but very packed schedule, New York Fashion Week has come to an end, and while the primary focus — right there in the name — is fashion, the shows also always serve as an indication of what will be trending in beauty the next season, if not sooner.
For Spring 2020, two popular points of reference for designers and their glam teams appeared to be the 1980s and the HBO series “Euphoria.” It’s not often that a group of fictional teens has this big of an impact on beauty — we don’t think it’s happened since Blair Waldorf ushered headbands back into the zeitgeist — but if you mention the phrase “Euphoria eyes” to anyone in beauty or fashion, they’ll know exactly what you’re talking about.
In addition to bold, sparkly, colorful eye makeup, we saw lots of ’80s-inspired hairstyles, from gelled-back to big and poufy; scarves used as hair accessories in various ways; slick rope braids and even a few circa-1995 darkly lined lips (also very Maddy).
Ahead, six standout hair and makeup trends that dominated the NYFW Spring 2020 runways.
While we have seen the occasional designer experiment with “glitter tears” or colorful eyeliner in past seasons, never has a statement eye look been so prominent in a single fashion week — many of which Jules or Maddy would wear in a heartbeat.
“The idea is to channel your inner artist,” said Maybelline New York’s Global Makeup Artist Erin Parsons of the Christian Siriano eye look, which she achieved using a mix of fingertips and brushes to lend lids an “organic” and “painterly” feel. At Laquan Smith, Sir John used liner and palettes by Uomo Beauty to make the eyes a focal point, focusing on a “feline” shape, while keeping the lips more neutral, as was the case with most of these looks. At Christian Cowan, Isamaya Ffrench began by coating the lids, past the eyebrow and under-eye area, in a mixture of Mac’s Silver Hologram Glitter and Mixing Medium Shine, then placing the brand’s Star Glitter all over.
Hair wrapped in scarves
At Kate Spade, hairstylist James Pecis was inspired by the collection’s “city safari” vibe, creating a relaxed look by blowing out the hair, pulling it into a low ponytail, putting it into a rope braid and pinning that into a chignon before wrapping the headscarf around it, tying it at the bottom. At Brandon Maxwell, Black models wore either sleek cornrows or silky durag headscarves. And at Jonathan Cohen, Bumble and Bumble Global Fashion Director Laurent Philippon braided Cohen’s fabrics into rope braids (another trend), beginning by wrapping the fabric around the base of the ponytail then using it to tie off the braid.
Gelled-back ’80s hair
Tyler aptly described this season’s Proenza Schouler girl as “the female Patrick Bateman,” and that was largely achieved with the models’ gelled-back hair. Redken’s Guido Palau accomplished this look by first blowdrying hair back away from the face, straightening it with a flat iron, then applying the brand’s Hardwear 16 gel through the front of the hair to create a wet texture, followed by hairspray. Similar looks could be found at Christian Cowan, Gabriela Hearst, Prabal Gurung, Sies Marjan and even Tory Burch. When left down, many of them had a Sloane Peterson effect, while Burch’s girls had a drier hair look inspired by Princess Diana.
Big, extreme ’80s hair
On the other end of the ’80s hair spectrum were looks that were all about volume and height. At Jeremy Scott, models wore candy-colored wigs cut into various shapes, inspired by “Jem and the Holograms.” In what was easily the week’s wildest and most conceptual hair look, Tomo Koizumi featured extremely vertiginous cone-shaped hair achieved by Guido Palau, foam cones and probably a literal ton of Redken Triple Pure 32 hairspray. Inspired by “a circus-meets-alien-meets-medieval vibe” per a press release, the hair look at Christopher John Rogers was also all about volume and drama. Naeemah LaFond, Global Artistic Director of Amika, achieved the look through a combination of backcombing, hairspray and carefully hidden hairpins.
In more of a micro-trend, a few of NYFW’s buzziest designers revived the ’90s makeup trend of lining your lips in a significantly darker shade than the rest of your lips. The Christopher John Rogers makeup team had the most fun with it, using various shades of liner as opposed to the typical brown.
Ditch your long ponytail and try a long braid instead. At Christian Siriano, the hair was literally inspired by Gigi Hadid. Odile Gilbert started with a high, tight pony, but a loose braid with texture and body. At Ulla Johnson, rope braids were used to create a “youthful, simple and playful” look according to Aveda’s Bob Recine. He used hair spray while braiding to prevent loose ends and flyaways. At Gabriela Hearst, rope braids were tied up unto chignons.