See the hair and makeup that dominated the Italian Spring 2020 runways.
Yes, fashion month is still going strong. As the European shows jump from Milan to Paris, we’re taking a moment to soak up all the major hair and beauty moments we spotted on the Italian runways. New York’s Spring 2020 shows gave us “Euphoria” eyes aplenty, multiple iterations of ’80s hair, rope braids and lip liner; over in London, models sported wayward eyeliner, deep side parts, more braids and sunset eyes. And yet, even after all of that, the beauty inspiration from the Milan runways didn’t disappoint.
Backstage glam teams dipped into loose glitter, bleach (for eyebrows) and false lashes (again, curiously, for eyebrows) when dreaming up this season’s looks, and then they went over to the garden (or…. jungle?) to pull vegetation-based adornments to accent a range of hairstyles. Ahead, we’ve compiled five standout beauty trends from the Milan Spring 2020 shows.
Arts & Crafts Effects
At Jeremy Scott‘s Picasso-inspired Moschino show, hairstylist Julien d’Ys (who is also a sculptor and painter) crafted custom wigs with painterly, colorful brushstrokes. Similarly artistic was the Venetian glass-inspired eye makeup on the Salvatore Ferragamo runway: Makeup artist Fara Homidi used a variety of bold pigments to create a graphic, geometric effect. Things got even craftier at Fendi, where models wore loose glitter sprinkled beneath their eyes — the best alternative to undereye concealer we’ve seen lately. And finally, Giorgio Armani got in on the glimmery trend, too, with models wearing large paillette sequins in place of traditional eye shadow.
After a season that saw lashes taking center stage over brows, backstage makeup artists have returned their attention to their favorite bleachable arches. For the Prada runway, Pat McGrath indeed bleached models’ brows, then exaggerated the effect with a thick swipe of black pigment beneath them, in the sockets of the eyes. Gucci’s mostly-minimalist beauty look relied on the brows, too: Makeup artist Thomas de Kluyver adorned them with strips of false lashes for a trippy, slightly creepy effect. At the much more subtle end of the spectrum was the brow look at Moschino (possibly the only time “subtle” and “Moschino” have ever been used in the same sentence). Makeup artist Kabuki relied on a method called “soaping” — using literal bar soap to mold the hairs into place — to create an exaggerated, elongated arch.
Red lips are always a staple on the runway — particularly those in Milan, where Dolce & Gabbana routinely shows a signature crisp, red lip. For the Spring 2020 shows, multiple designers got in on displaying vibrant jewel-tone lips: Models wore rich ruby lipstick at the Moschino show, while Prada‘s runway featured a deeper scarlet lip. The most dramatic iteration of all was Max Mara‘s look, for which the focal point was a matte, dark amethyst lip color.
Lazy people, this one’s for you: Messy, unkempt, tousled, just-rolled-out-of-bed hair is officially runway-approved. A long list of labels got in on the less-is-more styling trend: Fendi leaned into messy ponytails and topknots, Alberta Ferretti let models’ natural hair hang loose, Versace created an undone wet look and Gucci, Salvatore Ferragamo, Bottega Veneta, Etro and Sportmax each let models’ natural textures shine by going the minimalist styling route.
While no-hair hair certainly reigned supreme on the Milan runways, a handful of designers took a different tack, turning to plant life as a means of accessorizing decidedly “done” hairstyles. At Dolce & Gabbana, models wore a variety of flowers, typically a single bloom or leaf placed atop swept-up hair. The Missoni runway featured soft, romantic French twists adorned with small floral sprigs peeking out from the side. But by far the most elaborate take on vegetation-adorned hair appeared on the Marni runway, where hairstylist (and again, we reiterate, sculptor) d’Ys slicked models’ hair into stiff, towering clay structures and then placed multi-colored flowers on top. “It’s all inspired by this idea of basic humanity,” he said of the look in an interview with Vogue. “No chemicals! Real flowers! Clay! It’s so organic and peaceful.”