As you step into a Wiederhoeft show, the mood feels markedly different from that of any other New York Fashion Week event. You’re reminded that this isn’t just a fashion show, it’s a theatrical experience.
The brand’s Spring 2025 show on Tuesday was broken into three acts: The first began with a dancer in a paillette-adorned, bridal-esque dress sitting in the center of the nearly pitch-black space as guests filed into the venue. Once everyone was settled, other dancers dressed in black entered, seemingly psychologically torturing the main character by harshly pulling her in different directions.
Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Immediately intense, it was difficult not to interpret this scene as a representation of designer Jackson Wiederhoeft’s own experience. The absence of show notes this season didn’t exactly clarify the plot, either. But to Wiederhoeft, that intentionally missing piece was part of what made the presentation so meaningful.
“[Wiederhoeft has] so many stories. It’s like the Bible. There’s multiple,” they shared. “We’ve been saying up until now is Old Testament. I wrote a manifesto and then we decided not to release it. I think the message is pretty clear if you look at the work, and that’s what’s so thrilling.”
An apocalyptic-like siren wailed through the room, cueing the bride back to her center seat and introducing the first official look of Wiederhoeft’s Spring 2025 collection: a flowing white gown with a chainlink halter-neck detail — the first of many fence references in the collection. A short-sleeved, boned, midi T-shirt dress shows the shadows of a cast iron gate, almost making it look like the model is locked in the garment. Later, one of Wiederhoeft’s signature corsets is reimagined with literal metal wire fencing wrapped around it, with various padlocks attached.
“I love gates. It is very much about the significance of the passage of time in New York. I’m proud of being a New York brand. It’s the greatest city on earth,” said Wiederhoeft. “And the chain link fence — what’s more New York than that?”
This detail isn’t just a random pattern, either. It was modeled after Wiederhoeft’s specific favorite gate in New York City: Sunset Park in Brooklyn. “I think tracing is a form of artistry. [I love] when you walk by a fence at night and it projects that on your body,” said the designer. “There’s so much richness in the real world that I think is passed up.”
Movement, as choreographed by Austin Goodwin is a key aspect of Wiederhoeft shows; as each look floated down the runway, a palpable sense of awe swept through the audience, evoking audible gasps at times. The second act of the show featured a corset made of sweatpants material, liquid-looking latex gowns and various blush-toned looks (a new-ish color scheme for the brand).
“I really wanted to focus on corset shapes, embroideries and techniques that I love,” explained Wiederhoeft. “I think fashion tends to have a lot of pressure to reinvent the wheel, but I find a lot of pleasure in perfecting something.”
Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
The show could have ended with its final bridal look (as it typically has in past seasons), but for Spring 2025, Wiederhoeft took things even further. For the third act of the presentation, a set of double doors swung open, revealing a flood of bright white light before 26 more brides — all clad in the same corseted outfit — emerged. That same siren sound began as each model made their way to the main portion of the stage, circling the original tortured character of the show.
Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
“With the finale, I really wanted everyone to be able to look into the crowd and see someone who looks like them,” said the designer. “We spent a lot of this summer casting people with really interesting [and different] body types and heights. From 4’11” to 5’11” and cup sizes AA to H sizes.”
He continued, “I get clients all the time who are like, ‘I don’t have a body for a corset. I can’t find corsets my size.’ I just want to let everyone know that if you want Wiederhoeft, you can have it. It’s for everyone. This is drama club. We are here for good. Membership is open for anyone.”
The dozens of brides lifted each other’s veils and made their way to the main character, piling up white roses one by one before leaving the room. By the time it was just the original bride left, she dropped all of the flowers onto the ground, leaving them scattered for showgoers to take.
“I’m so honored to get to support this community and build this story,” said Wiederhoeft. “I just want to keep building this kingdom for everyone.”
Keep scrolling to see the full Wiederhoeft Spring 2025 collection.
Wiederhoeft Spring 2025. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Wiederhoeft Spring 2025. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Wiederhoeft Spring 2025. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Wiederhoeft Spring 2025. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Wiederhoeft Spring 2025. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Wiederhoeft Spring 2025. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Wiederhoeft Spring 2025. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Wiederhoeft Spring 2025. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Wiederhoeft Spring 2025. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Wiederhoeft Spring 2025. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Wiederhoeft Spring 2025. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Wiederhoeft Spring 2025. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Wiederhoeft Spring 2025. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Wiederhoeft Spring 2025. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Wiederhoeft Spring 2025. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Wiederhoeft Spring 2025. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Wiederhoeft Spring 2025. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Wiederhoeft Spring 2025. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Wiederhoeft Spring 2025. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Wiederhoeft Spring 2025. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Wiederhoeft Spring 2025. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Wiederhoeft Spring 2025. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Wiederhoeft Spring 2025. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Source: Fashionista.com