If there’s one skin-care company that internet beauty experts, professional estheticians and your fanciest friends are sure to unanimously endorse, it’s Biologique Recherche. The French spa brand, best know for its stinky-yet-effective P50 tonic, has built a loyal following for its use of innovative ingredients, high-impact actives and luxurious treatment protocols offered in some of the world’s highest-end spas.
The brand is known for its tendency to push boundaries with its formulas (see: “placenta” cream, which does not actually contain real placenta, but does incorporate a “vegan, biomimetic placenta extract that mimics the composition of human placenta”) and penchant for prioritizing efficacy over user experience. (Who cares if P50 smells like trash if it makes your skin impossibly glow-y?) But Biologique’s latest innovation neither smells weird nor leans into controversial ingredients. In fact, given that it’s premised entirely upon oxygen, it’s deceptively simple. The VIP O2 line, which the brand recently expanded from a longstanding, beloved gentle cleanser to a full skin- and hair-care range and professional treatment, focuses on “oxygenating” skin to deliver a calm, rejuvenated happy complexion.
But that doesn’t mean it was simple to develop. “The inspiration for the new VIP O2 range came from… constantly questioning the relevance of its formulas and advocating for continuous innovation,” says Dr. Hélène Huguet, the brand’s global vice president of R&D. “At Biologique Recherche, oxygen has been central to our philosophy for nearly 30 years, ever since the creation of VIP O2. What changes today is the way we approach it. We’ve chosen to revisit the oxygen theme through the lens of the latest scientific discoveries, while staying true to our historical methodology: leveraging advances in science to rethink how we address skin imbalances.”
Over the past three decades, she says, the research surrounding oxygen and skin has “made major strides.” “New biomarkers — measurable indicators reflecting the condition or biological activity of tissues, including skin — have been identified. These indicators enable precise monitoring of biological responses and allow for more targeted, more effective interventions. This is what’s now known as precision skin care: a scientific approach that aims to optimize the skin’s natural functions by activating the right mechanisms, at the right moment, in the right place,” Dr. Huguet tells Fashionista.
The therapeutic use of oxygen has, of course, been a part of medical healing for years, and it’s also shown up in aesthetic treatment protocols, such as oxygen-infused facials. But it seems to be resonating with consumers now more than ever, according to Dr. Huguet: “Symbolizing purity, regeneration and vitality, oxygen has become essential in the skin-care industry, resonating with today’s concerns about pollution and environmental stress.”
Photo: Courtesy of Biologique Recherche
With Biologique’s newly expanded VIP O2 range, the brand is stepping up how it is leveraging oxygen in skin care. “This new generation of oxygenating skin care incorporates an exclusive, patented complex developed by our research & development team, opening a new avenue of exploration into the understanding of oxygen’s role within the skin’s ecosystem,” says Dr. Huguet. “By optimizing cellular oxygenation of the epidermis, VIP O2 supports the skin’s metabolism, producing the energy essential to its proper functioning. VIP O2 skin-care products restore skin hydration, radiance and texture so that, day after day, the skin’s appearance is magnified.”
Per the expert, the range can also help to reinforce skin’s resilience over time, enabling it to bounce back more easily from environmental stressors. Here’s where things get super science-y: “About 10 years ago, scientists reached a turning point by establishing the first major frameworks for understanding biological aging and a series of key mechanisms were identified as root causes. Mitochondrial dysfunction was among these and is now recognized as one of the primary markers,” says Dr. Huguet.
The Biololgique Recherche team set out to explore how to support ATP (Adenosine TriPhosphate) production, or the primary energy currency of cells, providing the energy needed for various cellular processes. It wanted to explore how to improve oxygen use within the mitochondria of skin cells, “particularly in keratinocytes — the structural cells of the epidermis,” explains Dr. Huguet. As you may recall from your elementary school biology unit, mitochondria are considered the “powerhouses” of a cell, and they are responsible for developing ATP using oxygen.
“This process is called oxidative phosphorylation,” she elaborates. “When mitochondria malfunction, cellular activity as a whole becomes disrupted which leads to drops in energy production, deregulated biological signals, and a less efficient metabolism. Clinically, this appears as dull, uneven skin with irregular texture, reduced radiance, and diminished hydration.”
This led the Biologique Recherche team to study a lesser-known endogenous molecule at the skin level: melatonin. Yes, the hormone the body produces naturally in the pineal gland to help promote sleep.
Photo: Courtesy of Biologique Recherche
Used in skin care, “the melatonin enhances oxygen uptake by mitochondria, activates enzymatic complexes within the respiratory chain and boosts ATP production,” shares Dr. Huguet, adding, “This mechanism goes far beyond simple oxygenation — it reactivates the skin’s energy function by harnessing an already-existing physiological process.”
According to the brand, regular use of the VIP O2 range (the Lait VIP O2, Masque VIP O2, Crème VIP O2 and Créme Contour Des Yeux VIP O2) “is a powerful, yet gentle way to slow down skin aging from external factors such as pollution, UV exposure, stress and imbalanced lifestyles.”
While the VIP O2 range is touted as “suitable for all skin types,” Dr. Huguet suggests that it stands to be particularly beneficial for those living in urban environments, since they are “more frequently exposed to pollution and oxidative stress.” The line can also be used alongside any of the brand’s other products to tailor a regiment to skin’s exact needs on an evolving basis, she notes.
Occasionally, we use affiliate links on our site. This in no way affects our editorial decision-making. (Learn about our sponsored affiliate offerings.)
Source: Fashionista.com
Be First to Comment