It was all about shapes and volume.
Last September, Wes Gordon packed as many frills and thrills as he possibly could into his Spring 2020 collection for Carolina Herrera, whether it was polka-dotted tulle or blown-out floral print on maxi skirts. He masterfully toed the line between youthful and young, striking the kind of balance which makes a collection appeal to both established Herrera women and the new customer being courted by the designer.
When it came time to design Fall 2020, however, Gordon was clearly in a different mood. He stripped back much of the ornamentation, putting together a collection of austere, monochromatic looks — paired very often with flats, so let’s celebrate that — which felt mature without veering into staid territory. The key here was volume play, whether that was on a black dress held up by a stiff layer of tulle or a balloon sleeve on a sheer blouse. There were still playful elements, like floral cut-outs or voluminous ruffles, but they felt more restrained than in seasons past.
But if Gordon pulled off two hat tricks, they were these: making capes feel not only desirable, but downright practical, and turning out formalwear which felt both covered up and sexy. We have no choice but to stan.
See the complete Carolina Herrera Fall 2020 collection in the gallery below: