We Can Stop Calling It the 'Toryssance' Now — Tory Burch Is Just Good

In New York, it feels increasingly rare that a designer can generate buzz and excitement through clothes alone, but Tory Burch has placed herself in that category in recent seasons. Sure, the brand also invests in celebrity casting (I almost didn’t clock Alexa Chung on Monday’s runway, she blended in so well.), seating celebs front-row, booking nice-looking venues and engaging in strategic influencer marketing to ensure widespread visibility for her clothes and accessories, but they do deserve to be in the spotlight.

This is particularly true of the designer’s Spring 2025 collection, a confident and well-edited assortment designed, as always, with the modern woman in mind. Beyond that, it’s innovative and interesting to look at, without sacrificing wearability. It began with Burch thinking about “the essence of sport: power and grace, precision and freedom.”

If there was any early indicator of the “Toryssance,” it was a sub-brand launched in 2015 called Tory Sport, which felt markedly younger and “cooler” than the main line. Former LVMH exec Pierre-Yves Roussel (also Burch’s husband), who became the company’s CEO in late 2018, suggested eliminating Tory Sport a few years back, while incorporating some aspects into the main line. “I think this is the first collection that reflects that,” Burch told press after the show, noting, “It wasn’t smart, in retrospect, to have a separate logo and brand.” Speaking of throwbacks, Burch also brought back her iconic Reva ballet flat (which originally debuted in 2006), showing modernized versions with intriguing cut-outs.

The collection’s athletic influence, while not particularly literal, can be seen in swimsuits reinterpreted as luxurious daywear via sequin embroidery, jackets inspired by martial arts uniforms, jersey-like sweaters, low-waist trousers with thick, sweatpant-like drawstrings and even little emoji-esque graphics of swimmers placed on garments. Broadly, Burch worked to provide clothes that women can really move in, via light fabrics and innovative construction that allows for softness and stretch — but, impressively, still look structured and fashion-forward.

At this point, it feels safe to retire the term “Toryssance” — perhaps we can just accept that Tory Buch is good now.

See all the looks from Tory Burch Spring 2025 below.