The Emerging Designers That Caught Buyers' Attention During Spring 2025 Fashion Month

Yes, fashion weeks are largely opportunities to preview the newest collections of already-beloved and even household-name brands. But a big part of what makes them exciting is the opportunity to discover new ones. Fashion month serves as a launch pad for emerging designers hoping to get in front of industry gatekeepers with the power and influence to make them the Next Big Thing.

Retailers are among the most important parts of this equation — buyers are the ones who write the orders that bring new collections to consumers and provide brands (well, the ones who engage in wholesale) with the finances to make it to the next season. In turn, these up-and-coming brands also provide retailers with the newness and excitement that helps set them apart from competitors.

Below, buyers from influential retailers like Ssense, Essx and L’Ensemble share the emerging designers they discovered — and, most importantly, got excited about — during Spring 2025 fashion month.

Alainpaul

“This brand was discovered through a longtime wholesale partner of Antidote that recommended we have a look. He uses some great, very personal references to ballet and garments fit well and feel easy on the body.” —Lauren Amos, founder of Antidote.

Hodakova

“We’ve been very excited about Hodakova at Ssense, which joined our menswear roster this fall after seeing success on the womenswear side. As the winner of this year’s LVMH Prize, Ellen had a fantastic show – one of my favorites of the season so far.” —Brigitte Chartrand, vice president of womenswear buying and Everything Else at Ssense

“We’ve had our eye on this brand for some time, and felt it was finally time to make an appointment, a choice that was vindicated by their recent award of the LVMH Prize!” —Lauren Amos, founder of Antidote.

Julie Kegels

Photos&colon; Julien Hekimian/Getty Images

“Julie Kegels had an incredible Spring 2025 show in Paris with her California surf inspiration. She recently joined our womenswear roster this fall, and I’m sure our customers will be looking forward to her Spring 2025 collection.” — Brigitte Chartrand, vice president of womenswear buying and Everything Else at Ssense

Willy Chavarria

“We’ve been following the brand for a while now and been fans of what he’s achieved but really felt that the Spring 2025 collection was one of his strongest and people are really recognizing the Willy look. The Adidas collab is a great move for the brand as we anticipate the collection to sell out really fast.” —Vincent Gobeil, buying director at Essx

All-In

“I met them in Stockholm last year and really liked their vision of the brand, mixing their magazine with their collections. The Spring 2025 show had strong ‘Sex and the City’ and ‘Working Girl’ vibes, which are two great inspirations, and great pieces, especially the footwear. —Vincent Gobeil, buying director at Essx

Nitto

“On a recent appointment in Paris, my dear friend Marcello, who represents several lovely brands, insisted I view Nitto, a brand based in Italy and Brazil. I had seen them before when the collection was small, albeit beautiful. I was delighted to see that their Spring 2025 collection had grown to include beautiful Italian cotton shirting and dresses while maintaining focus on their amazing hand-knitted and hand-crocheted pieces, all of which use natural materials with a lower environmental impact. What attracts me most to Nitto is that they are creating timeless but fresh-feeling pieces for young and old alike, and the fact that all items are fully handmade, many complete with a tag noting the hours it took to make the garment. Incredible!” —Dawn Nguyen, founder of L’Ensemble