Louis Vuitton’s men’s spring 2024 show has become, without a doubt, one of the most talked-about events of men’s fashion week. It’s no surprise either—this is the very first show from the newly named creative director Pharrell Williams, the multitalented record producer, rapper, singer, songwriter, and designer.
As the successor to Virgil Abloh, many have been vocal about Williams’s appointment at Louis Vuitton since it was announced in February—either enthusiastically awaiting his work, or rallying behind the names in fashion they wished had gotten the opportunity instead. But this is hardly the first time Williams has been involved with fashion: in 2004, he co-designed a line of eyewear with Marc Jacobs at Louis Vuitton, followed by a 2008 jewelry project with the megahouse. Next came collaborations designed in partnership with Adidas, Moncler, and Chanel, including a capsule collection he created alongside the late creative director Karl Lagerfeld in 2019. He also cofounded Billionaire Boys Club with Nigo in 2003. All that aside, Williams’s appointment marks the first time a figure from the world of music has taken on such a high-profile role in fashion.
Here’s everything you need to know about Louis Vuitton’s men’s spring 2024 show, which took place outdoors, on Pont Neuf bridge in Paris on June 20.
Damier Is Back
Days before the show, Williams debuted his first Louis Vuitton campaign as creative director, featuring a pregnant Rihanna wielding armfuls of Speedy bags, silver chains, and an undone button-down covered in shadowed checkerboard print. The look spoke volumes, especially for LV devotees. Damier—the brand’s version of checkerboard print first introduced in 1889—is back, with Williams using the pattern in radical new ways. It covered the Pont Neuf bridge in a blanket of pillow-y, pale yellow carpeting that served as the runway. But it was also seen on jean jackets, longline coats, slouchy soft suits, and in hues of bright yellow, brilliant blue, navy, and deep green.
Accessories Were Everything
Williams has made it clear that the accessories are as important as the clothing here. Matthew Henson styled the show with embossed backpacks, little round sunglasses, chunky black beanies, structured logo berets, camo square sunglasses, and cargo pocket bags—while multiple open-air golf carts drove the length of the runway with the brand’s signature luggage trunks on their flatbeds. Williams obviously has an eye for details, with little chunky scrunched socks that recalled a kawaii ’90s Fruits magazine vibe. Aside from that, even the clothing was accessorized: with beaded crystal coats; shimmering, ladylike, embroidered suits; pearl chains; necklaces, and even pearl-trimmed sweatsuits. Models held multiple bags at once; gold top-handle trunks, Speedies nestled in the crooks of their arms. They were also decked out in rolled-up blankets and flowing trapper hats. Williams was looking to dandy culture as inspiration, citing “the attitude of the dandy… a loosely autobiographical tailored silhouette adapted in a contemporary approach to suiting and encrusted with pearls and crystals,” in the show notes.
Camo Is Here to Stay
Aptly titled “Damouflage” by Williams, this new print is a combination of Damier and classic camouflage—slightly pixelated and a bit distressed. The pattern was a focus of the collection, with Williams taking his final bow in yet another version of it. A few of the Damouflage moments that opened the show were splashed onto utilitarian-style rain boots, a laser-cut trench coat. and crossbody bags and trunks. The look was truly everywhere, and was very distinctly Pharrell.
Meet the New Lover Logo
There were many playful motifs within this collection, including blue jeans embroidered with designs from Black artist Henry Taylor. Also on display: a new take on the classic Louis Vuitton logo splashed across leather bomber jackets that combined the classic “LV” monogram with the word “lovers.” “LVers is a state of mind: warmth, well being and welcome-ness. It is the culture of a global community connected by an appreciation for the core values of the maison,” read the show notes. The collection was also co-ed, with a few female models sprinkled here and there, wearing striped leather rugby polos and slouchy, soft suits. Overall, Williams brought an eclectic sense of youthfulness, filtering the Louis Vuitton brand codes through his own personal style lens. “I am a creative designer from the perspective of the consumer,” he told The New York Times ahead of the show. “I didn’t go to Central Saint Martins. But I definitely went in the stores and purchased, and I know what I like.”
The Show Was a Celebration
Throughout the presentation, new Williams-produced songs including “Joy (Unspeakable)” were performed by the Virginia-based gospel choir Voices of Fire. “Chains & Whips” by Clipse—whose members, Pusha T and No Malice, walked the runway—and a track titled “Peace Be Still”, featuring piano played by Lang Lang were also performed live. Instead of taking a traditional final walk, the models came out in one large group followed by Williams, wearing his own Damouflage creation and wiping tears from his face. Next came his team at Louis Vuitton, who embraced their new creative director, clapped, and sang along with the choir. Both Jay Z and Rihanna gave a standing ovation—and the former gave an exclusive performance after the show. Naomi Cambell wore a custom monogrammed leather bra and mini skirt with big zippers. Overall, the finale cemented an emotional and positive debut from a bright cultural force.
Source: W Magazine
