Ten years ago, Olivier Rousteing stepped into his role as Creative Director of Balmain, making history as the first Black designer to helm a luxury French fashion house — at just 25 years old, no less. Since then, the designer has ushered in a new era for the label, complete with a buzzy Balmain Army and a fresh, forward-thinking take on Parisian style. Coinciding with Rousteing’s 10th anniversary as creative director, the brand also recently celebrated the 75th anniversary of Monsieur Balmain’s debut presentation, which writer Alice B. Toklas then heralded as the “New French Style.” That declaration paved the way for the future of Balmain — and continued to do so this season for Rousteing.
“Pierre Balmain’s New French Style wowed the world. Its audacious and daring spirit helped establish this house’s firm foundations, upon which I attempt to build, year after year, collection after collection,” Rousteing reflected. “During my time here, I have become increasingly aware that in addition to continuing the story of this house’s impressive DNA, I am also adding a distinctive and modern new New French Style to the mix—one that reflects my personal journey as much as that of the global, inclusive and transformed 21st-Century France and Paris where I live today.”
Those reflections led Rousteing to look to his own roots in Bordeaux (where he was adopted), Paris (the place he calls home), and Africa (where he recently learned his birth parents were from). The result was a collection that fused Rousteing’s heritage with that of Monsieur Balmain’s. There were intricate weavings, rich patterns, and jeweled embroideries inspired by the Horn of Africa’s artisan traditions and culture. There were nods to Pierre Balmain’s signature silhouettes — from tailored smoking jackets to military-inspired silhouettes, sharp shoulders, and the 50-year-old labyrinth pattern. There was elevated logomania and bold sexiness that’s been marched down red carpets, runways, and all over social media by the Balmain Army for a decade.
But amongst the fashion house’s distinctive signatures, a more relaxed silhouette emerged in the Resort 2022 collection. Effortlessly sexy off-the-shoulder silhouettes and relaxed nonchalance reigned supreme this season, and as we look ahead to 2022 and the future of dressing, that’s a style we’d all probably like to channel.
Source: W Magazine
