Plus, artist Tom Sachs on creative leadership and his ongoing relationship with Nike.
These are the stories making headlines in fashion on Wednesday.
“Streetwear” doesn’t have to be a dirty word
The industry’s relationship with the word “streetwear” needs a makeover, argues Micha Frazer-Carroll in a new piece for British Vogue. In some designer circles, the word has been described as “basic” and “degrading.” Nasir Mazhar, who has designed pieces for Lady Gaga, frequently points out the racially coded way the word is deployed by fashion writers. But Fazer-Carrolls believes “streetwear” doesn’t have to be a dirty word: “The style encompasses and represents exciting, evolving, dynamic and subversive cross sections within fashion,” he writes, adding that we should still be critical of the ways it can be weaponized against people of color. {British Vogue}
The Institut Français de la Mode wants to be the world’s best fashion school
Paris’s Institut Français de la Mode has merged with the École de la Chambre Syndicale de la Couture to rival London’s Central Saint Martins and further boost French luxury with an educational institution that matches the city’s dominance in the industry. The main focus for the new IFM will be to create a stream of talent that will feed into the big fashion houses. {Business of Fashion}
Artist Tom Sachs on creative leadership and his ongoing relationship with Nike
Vogue Business visited artist Tom Sachs at his studio to discuss how he manages a creative team and his ongoing collaboration with Nike. “I chose Nike out of all the people to work with because it’s the biggest apparel company,” he says. “And I have a long history with it — I mowed my lawn when I was 15 to buy my first waffle trainers. There’s a tribal connection.” {Vogue Business}
How European designers are dealing with climate change
Unusually hot summers have forced retailers to rethink how they manufacture, market and sell their clothes. Flexibility, smaller inventories and a greater focus on products that are less seasonally dependent, like accessories, are some ways designers abroad have beat the heat. Some have also ramped up their digital sales and have worked to create medium-weight and high-tech fabrics that bridge seasons. {WWD}
Coty reportedly in talks to acquire stake in Kylie Cosmetics
Kylie Cosmetics has held conversations with various investors for years, but one source tells WWD that the brand is in serious talks with Coty Inc. to sell 51% or more of the company. The source also revealed that the price being discussed is at least $600 million. {WWD}
American Eagle thrives with inclusive jeans and intimates
American Eagle has had 23 consecutive quarters of record jean sales, thanks to its large assortment of denim that includes extended sizes for both men and women. The company is also thriving in the intimates and swim categories. Last quarter, Aerie‘s comparable store sales jumped 14%, and the retailer announced plans to open between 60 to 75 stores. Robert Madore, chief financial officer and executive vice president of American Eagle Outfitters, says Aerie will become a billion-dollar brand within the next year and a half. {WWD}
The diamond jewelry retail industry is shrinking
The diamond jewelry retail industry is struggling to evolve, leading to a high number of store closures: In 2018, the Jewelers Board of Trade reported that 852 U.S. jewelry retailers closed up shop, on top of the 817 retailers that shut down in 2017. Part of the problem is that the bulk of the jewelry retail industry is made up of smaller stores, and those stores are struggling to keep up with current retail trends. {RetailDive}
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Source: Fashionista.com
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