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Hermès Presents 'Second Chapter' of Fall 2024 in New York

The epitome of French luxury is putting its spin on New York City style.

Hermès took over Pier 36, a cavernous event space sandwiched between FDR Drive and the East River, and transformed it into a one-night-only club to showcase Nadège Vanhée’s latest. (This isn’t technically the brand’s first show in New York City: It staged a menswear runway in Williamsburg in September.) It’s positioning the collection as “the second chapter” of Fall 2024, which walked the runway in Paris back in March. It’s perhaps comparable to Cruise or Resort 2025, which will deliver in the winter months — and which typically sees luxury houses traveling from their home bases to places like Scotland, Shanghai or Barcelona. But, really, it’s a homecoming of sorts for Vanhée, who, prior to becoming the brand’s artistic director of women’s ready-to-wear, was the New York-based design director at The Row

In the show notes, Hermès writes that the key word for the season is “Rocabar,” referring to the 19th-century striped horse rug that has become a house motif across its products, from fragrance to ready-to-wear to home. It informs the earthy color palette of mustard yellow, cobalt blue, tomato red and soft brown that conjure up images of riding trails and equestrian adventures, which are juxtaposed against the bright white and slick black of an urban landscape. 

The collection is a thematic continuation of what we saw in Paris earlier this year, reiterating and building upon the concept of “riding,” both in the equine sense and moto sense, in a fast-paced metropolitan environment. It’s a meeting of these two worlds, highlighting how the brand is able to deftly bridge its heritage with the needs and desires of a modern consumer: borrowing elements like the fit of riding pants, the quilting pattern of saddle pads and the coverall silhouette and updating the shape, cut and material to make them desirable to someone who perhaps isn’t headed to the stables every day (maybe just on weekends). 

The accessories help solidify this cosmopolitan narrative, with many models carrying two bags or showcasing all the pockets available to them throughout the look — as did the choreography, which saw them walk powerfully down and around the runway to a booming soundtrack (and with faux traffic lights overhead). And, as always, Vanhée also incorporates perennial Hermès motifs, like printed silk scarves (reimagined as blouses and knits, or wrapped around the waist under belts) and all forms of leather (to the point that you could almost smell the samples). 

For a heritage brand that’s always been more quiet about its approach to luxury, Hermès has been amping up the wow-factor with its events. And it’s been working: In February, it reported that its full-year revenue was up 21%, totaling $14.45 billion in 2023, with growth across categories. (Clothing and accessories represent its second largest division, and that revenue grew by 28%.) It’s mostly curious because there haven’t been major changes on the creative side — in fact, Vanhée is celebrating a decade at the house. Perhaps it’s confidence: knowing the brand, knowing New York, knowing what the customer will want. 

Hermès Fall 2024. Photo: Filippo Fior/Courtesy of Hermès

Hermès Fall 2024. Photo: Filippo Fior/Courtesy of Hermès

Hermès Fall 2024. Photo: Filippo Fior/Courtesy of Hermès

Hermès Fall 2024. Photo: Filippo Fior/Courtesy of Hermès

Hermès Fall 2024. Photo: Filippo Fior/Courtesy of Hermès

Hermès Fall 2024. Photo: Filippo Fior/Courtesy of Hermès

Hermès Fall 2024. Photo: Filippo Fior/Courtesy of Hermès

Hermès Fall 2024. Photo: Filippo Fior/Courtesy of Hermès

Hermès Fall 2024. Photo: Filippo Fior/Courtesy of Hermès

Hermès Fall 2024. Photo: Filippo Fior/Courtesy of Hermès

Hermès Fall 2024. Photo: Filippo Fior/Courtesy of Hermès

Hermès Fall 2024. Photo: Filippo Fior/Courtesy of Hermès

Hermès Fall 2024. Photo: Filippo Fior/Courtesy of Hermès

Hermès Fall 2024. Photo: Filippo Fior/Courtesy of Hermès

Hermès Fall 2024. Photo: Filippo Fior/Courtesy of Hermès

Hermès Fall 2024. Photo: Filippo Fior/Courtesy of Hermès

Hermès Fall 2024. Photo: Filippo Fior/Courtesy of Hermès

Hermès Fall 2024. Photo: Filippo Fior/Courtesy of Hermès

Hermès Fall 2024. Photo: Filippo Fior/Courtesy of Hermès

Hermès Fall 2024. Photo: Filippo Fior/Courtesy of Hermès

Hermès Fall 2024. Photo: Filippo Fior/Courtesy of Hermès

Hermès Fall 2024. Photo: Filippo Fior/Courtesy of Hermès

Hermès Fall 2024. Photo: Filippo Fior/Courtesy of Hermès

Hermès Fall 2024. Photo: Filippo Fior/Courtesy of Hermès

Hermès Fall 2024. Photo: Filippo Fior/Courtesy of Hermès

Hermès Fall 2024. Photo: Filippo Fior/Courtesy of Hermès

Hermès Fall 2024. Photo: Filippo Fior/Courtesy of Hermès

Hermès Fall 2024. Photo: Filippo Fior/Courtesy of Hermès

Hermès Fall 2024. Photo: Filippo Fior/Courtesy of Hermès

Hermès Fall 2024. Photo: Filippo Fior/Courtesy of Hermès

Hermès Fall 2024. Photo: Filippo Fior/Courtesy of Hermès

Hermès Fall 2024. Photo: Filippo Fior/Courtesy of Hermès

Hermès Fall 2024. Photo: Filippo Fior/Courtesy of Hermès

Hermès Fall 2024. Photo: Filippo Fior/Courtesy of Hermès

Hermès Fall 2024. Photo: Filippo Fior/Courtesy of Hermès

Hermès Fall 2024. Photo: Filippo Fior/Courtesy of Hermès

Hermès Fall 2024. Photo: Filippo Fior/Courtesy of Hermès

Hermès Fall 2024. Photo: Filippo Fior/Courtesy of Hermès

Hermès Fall 2024. Photo: Filippo Fior/Courtesy of Hermès

Hermès Fall 2024. Photo: Filippo Fior/Courtesy of Hermès

Hermès Fall 2024. Photo: Filippo Fior/Courtesy of Hermès

Hermès Fall 2024. Photo: Filippo Fior/Courtesy of Hermès

Hermès Fall 2024. Photo: Filippo Fior/Courtesy of Hermès

Hermès Fall 2024. Photo: Filippo Fior/Courtesy of Hermès

Hermès Fall 2024. Photo: Filippo Fior/Courtesy of Hermès

Hermès Fall 2024. Photo: Filippo Fior/Courtesy of Hermès

Hermès Fall 2024. Photo: Filippo Fior/Courtesy of Hermès

Hermès Fall 2024. Photo: Filippo Fior/Courtesy of Hermès

Hermès Fall 2024. Photo: Filippo Fior/Courtesy of Hermès

Hermès Fall 2024. Photo: Filippo Fior/Courtesy of Hermès

Hermès Fall 2024. Photo: Filippo Fior/Courtesy of Hermès

Hermès Fall 2024. Photo: Filippo Fior/Courtesy of Hermès

Hermès Fall 2024. Photo: Filippo Fior/Courtesy of Hermès

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Source: Fashionista.com

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