Christopher John Rogers Returns to New York Fashion Week With Imaginative Silhouettes and Playful Colors

It has been five years since Christopher John Rogers last presented on the New York Fashion Week calendar. For his long-awaited return on Thursday night, just about everyone in the fashion industry gathered at the Brooklyn Navy Yard, eager to witness what he had in store for the Fall 2025 season.

Moments before the first look appeared on the runway, guests’ ears were primed with a remix of “Pure Imagination” from “Willy Wonka and the Chocolate Factory,” encouraging the audience to “hold your breath, make a wish, count to three” and come with Rogers into his very own candy-striped, rainbow fantasy world.

In his show notes, the designer wrote, “In a time when identity and personhood are globally challenged, the pursuit of one’s own happiness and autonomy can feel like a daunting but essential endeavor.” What has always remained true about Rogers is his ability to create beautifully made, vividly hued, fun clothing — regardless of what’s trending in the general fashion landscape. There was an air of joy in the space unlike the day’s previous shows; people were excited to see something that made them feel good.

The collection — titled “Exhale” — opened with a chartreuse-and-burgundy striped dress that immediately brightened the dimly lit warehouse venue. Voluminous midi-length ballgown skirts in bright pinks followed, along with peeks of glowing teal bodices poking out from cherry red pencil dresses, bursts of pleated satin peplums and more. These designs represent a true sigh of relief from Rogers.

In an interview with Vogue Business, the designer said plainly, “I’m not holding my breath anymore.”

Though Rogers has always presented daywear (despite a clear knack for occasionwear as recognized by star wearers of the brand, including Kamala Harris, Lady Gaga, Michelle Obama, Rihanna and more), something about his fifteenth collection felt far more wearable and realistic than past outings.

“[This collection] embodies the spirit of defiance and individuality by offering up delectable, idiosyncratic inventions that seamlessly integrate into a wardrobe, representing a confident step forward for our Ready-to-wear,” read the show notes.

Those “delectable inventions” include button-up dress shirts made more exciting by dark contrast stitching and explosions of flowing, monochromatic ribbons falling along the leg of a tailored pant, as well as “Muppet”-like mohair duster coats and color-blocked sweaters tied around suited waists.

Rogers interestingly saved perhaps the most muted look of the collection for last — a long, monochromatic brown wool coat with matching trousers — softly and subtly signaling his ability to show constraint while still presenting a skillful, exhilarating display of sartorial delights.

See the Christopher John Rogers Fall 2025 collection below.