Buyers Weigh in on Fall 2025's Best Creative Director Debuts

Luxury fashion’s current game of creative director musical chairs may feel like it’s just reaching a fever pitch now, but it’s actually been going on since early in 2024. In every major city this past fashion month, there were at least a couple of highly anticipated runway debuts from designers who were appointed last year, from Veronica Leoni at Calvin Klein in New York, to Haider Ackermann at Tom Ford in Paris.

These are high-pressure moments for designers, especially those taking on legacy houses for which the fashion industry already has certain expectations. New creative directors must honor a brand’s history and DNA while still offering their distinct points of view, in a way that appeases press, retailers and consumers alike. A critic’s reasons for deciding a debut collection is (or isn’t) successful (which you can read more about here) can differ from those of a buyer, who may view designs through more of a commercial lens as they consider what their customers are looking for, both generally and from specific brands with which they already have a relationship.

Below, buyers from Ssense, Essx and Nordstrom weigh in on the Fall 2025 creative director debuts they thought were most successful, from Calvin Klein, Dries Van Noten, Givenchy and Tom Ford.

Calvin Klein by Veronica Leoni

“Veronica Leoni’s debut collection at Calvin Klein was a well-balanced offering, seamlessly blending eveningwear with everyday, effortlessly stylish wardrobe pieces. The collection also featured beautiful outerwear, making it versatile and easily wearable. A standout was the footwear, particularly the slingback ballerina, which was pulled from the archive and added a timeless touch. Additionally, the collection included some stunning handbag options, further elevating the overall aesthetic.” —Brigitte Chartrand, Vice President of womenswear buying and Everything Else^TM at Ssense

See the full collection below.

Dries Van Noten by Julian Klausner

“Julian Klausner did a remarkable job capturing the Dries Van Noten aesthetic in his own unique way, staying true to the elements that so many customers love. He played with colors, shapes, and textures, with fringe pieces being a standout — surprisingly light and easier to wear than expected, especially in Look 48 [above, middle]. My favorite look was the tassel bolero jacket in Look 51 [above, right], which really stood out. I also loved the oversized chenille sweater and hood/snood in Look 17 [above, left], as it was both elegant and chic, yet simple enough to attract customers.” —Chartrand

See the full collection below.

Givenchy by Sarah Burton

“Anticipation ran high for Sarah Burton’s debut show at Givenchy — and it delivered. Held at the Givenchy headquarters on 3 Avenue George V, the intimate setting, with stacks of brown paper pattern boxes lining the room, added a thoughtful touch. The focus on tailoring stood out, with Sarah achieving the perfect balance between creating distinctive and wearable pieces. Coats and suit jackets with bold shoulders were highlights, along with sharp leather designs. Overall, the collection exuded confidence and marked an exciting reset for the house. We’re eager to see how this vision evolves.” —Rickie De Sole, VP, fashion director at Nordstrom

See the full collection below.

Tom Ford by Haider Hackermann

“I was most excited by Haider Ackermann at Tom Ford, knowing how great he is with textures and colors — and he didn’t disappoint. The styling elevated the super chic looks with a fresh take on leathers and silhouettes. Customers will definitely want a piece of that collection (if they can afford it). It’s hard to choose a favorite look, but I’m torn between Look 23 [above, left] and Look 26 [above, middle]. That said, I would wear the coat from Look 23 every day if I could. I’m really looking forward to all the colors we’ll see on the Spring 2026 runway!” —Vincent Gobeil, buying director at Essx

See the full collection below.

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Source: Fashionista.com