Anthony Vaccarello Weaves '80s Workwear Into Something Timeless at Saint Laurent

The Citizen

3 years ago

These are looks that will command any room with ease.

Saint Laurent, the legendary fashion house that gave us iconic pieces like the Mondrian Shift, le Smoking and the see-through dress, continues to empower women through fashion with its Fall 2023 collection.

The show took place Tuesday in a modern black box venue with golden floating chandeliers illuminating the gold runway tapestry, the opulence setting the tone for a magisterial collection to come.

A recurring theme this fashion season seems to be functionality, and Saint Laurent’s Creative Director Anthony Vaccarello provided his own interpretation through chic workwear staples: Models strode out in oversized blazers with dramatically sharp epaulets paired with slim-fitting pencil skirts for an ’80s-tinged office uniform. Leather bomber jackets were layered over pin-stripped midi skirts; beige silk turtlenecks were tucked into fitted black trouser. Imposing top-heavy silhouettes are a key part of the collection; several models donned thick scarves wrapped around boxy shoulders, adding texture to the exaggerated shape. All of these looks were completed with simple, unassuming accessories: hoop earrings, aviator sunglasses, leather gloves, sheer tights and elegant pumps.

Photo: Imaxtree

Per the show notes, “the precision can be found in the sharp shoulder line of a bold new blazer. It all starts with this gesture, fabric dictates the rest. Creating enticing friction, the structured jacket is juxtaposed with a flowing layer of cloth, a signature scarf that may merge with the bow of a blouse or extend down like a stole.”

Overall, the largely monochrome collection is highly reminiscent of ‘80s workwear, characterized by shoulders pumped up with extra padding, and turtleneck-under-sweater moments. The collection also evokes the ’80s glam rock aesthetic, with a plethora of rich leathers, smooth silks and luscious velvets layered seamlessly.

See every look from Saint Laurent’s Fall 2023 collection below.

Saint Laurent Fall 2023. Photo: Imaxtree