The current state of print fashion media is in the same condition as the journalism industry as a whole: unstable.
More than a decade ago, as publications swiftly shifted to dot-com content, many industry professionals predicted it was the beginning of the end for print magazines. That sentiment only grew stronger with the development of social media platforms, audience’s preferences for video over written content and shortening attention spans.
But then, in the past couple of years, the demand for print magazines unexpectedly surged. Across the industry, publications have responded accordingly: In 2024, The Cut introduced its first-ever solo print issue, while Nylon relaunched its print edition after going digital-only in 2017. There’s also the new wave of emerging indie print titles, including Family Style, Takeaway, Players and EE72, to name a few.
The comeback leaves insiders feeling confused about what this means for journalism’s fate. After all, print’s resurgence comes as other titles fold (RIP, Teen Vogue) and staff positions dwindle. Vladimir Restoin Roitfeld, president of CR Fashion Book and founder and editor-in-chief of Players, understands the unease all too well.
Photo: Dave Benett/Getty Images
“In this world of media and publication, it’s true that it’s becoming harder and harder for brands to want to invest in magazines,” he tells Fashionista.
As the son of longtime fashion editor and founder of CR Fashion Book, Carine Roitfeld, the junior Roitfeld grew up with a front-row seat to the ins and outs of fashion media and has witnessed its many phases. He understands that surviving in publishing requires adaptability and working with print can be more costly than profitable nowadays.
However, where other titles have struggled to stay afloat, CR Fashion Book‘s biannual print issues have thrived since its inception in 2012. To date, the publication has expanded in China and Japan and launched a creative content house called CR Studio.
Roitfeld believes its niche category, culturally engaged ideas, creative flexibility and aesthetically pleasing look is why it’s gained such a loyal following.
Photos: Courtesy of CR Fashion Book
“We’ve never thought of cutting off the print version of the magazine,” Roitfeld says. “The idea behind CR Fashion Book has always been to create a coffee table book. We wanted to create something that’s timeless, can be kept at home and is more than a magazine. […] Print creates permanence. In a world of endless scrolling, a magazine is an object you can keep, revisit and display. It’s also a luxury discipline — it forces you to slow down and craft something timeless.”
Spanning the pages of the hefty issues are stories intersecting art and fashion, avant-garde editorials and exciting interviews with a range of stars, from Beyoncé to Miley Cyrus to Sombr. The key to keeping readers engaged, Roitfeld says, is producing boundary-pushing issues. Especially when engaging with Gen Z and young Millennial readers — who reportedly display shorter reading attention spans — Roitfeld and his team brainstorm ways to deliver stories that can exist beyond algorithmic consumption yet still feel like a record of the culture.
“We don’t chase virality — we focus on storytelling that feels genuine. Young readers can sense authenticity immediately,” he shares. “It’s about respect for the audience, not pandering to them.”
Photos: Courtesy of Players
Roitfeld’s eye for knowing what content consumers demand prompted him to co-launch the sports-centric magazine Players earlier this year. He noticed an untapped niche exploring the intersection of sports and fashion.
“I saw how the tension between the two industries was getting stronger and stronger,” he says. “It’s becoming much more visible how interested athletes are in the world of fashion.”
Players‘ debut issue focused on a basketball theme and tapped Dwyane Wade as a guest editor. Its second issue — which hit newsstands the week of Nov. 24 — highlights athletes across a range of sports. Featured talent includes Zidane, Kaká, Del Piero, Paul Pogba, Suni Lee, Lindsey Vonn, Odell Beckham Jr. and Sha’Carri Richardson.
Photo: Ricardo Gomes/Courtesy of Players
Where Roitfeld is more involved in CR Fashion Book‘s business operations, he has a greater creative hand with Players. He meets with agents, runs pitch meetings, works on casting, handles advertisers and hires photographers.
Though Players and CR Fashion Book exist as separate entities and speak to different audiences, it’s important that there’s brand cohesion. As such, Players’ print issues reflect the “coffee book” idea and can be seen as a collectible item for readers. “The response has been very good because we found a niche in the market, and something that feels necessary and needed,” he says.
There’s a business benefit to publishing print, too: Brands and publicists are more eager to work with the magazine if they can land print placements. “I know a lot of people think that digital is enough, but if we give brands and talent the option to be in a digital magazine versus a print magazine, everyone would prefer to be in print,” he explains.
Advertisers have also been open to working with Players. “Very rapidly, the response was quite enthusiastic,” Roitfeld shares. “Some advertising meetings are good, some are less good. […] But we have great hope for Issue Three — especially with the World Cup happening in the U.S. — that that will give us an amazing topic and a very big reach as well.”
Photo: Morgan Maher/Courtesy of CR Fashion Book
It helps that Roitfeld can also look at concrete metrics to measure how successful CR Fashion Book‘s and Players‘ print issues are. The team looks at numerical data, including distribution, sales, partnerships and social reach. However, how much an issue sparks cultural dialogue is the greatest indicator of a print edition’s success, according to Roitfeld.
“We want to make sure that the brands are happy, that the photographers and the talents are extremely excited with the result of the magazine and that the community that follows us follows up on social media,” he explains. “When you see the covers reposted across sports and fashion worlds, or from the athletes themselves, that’s impact you can’t fake.”
Ultimately, Roitfeld is adamant there will always be a demand for print issues, from brands, advertisers and readers alike. It’s just up to publishers to figure out how to adapt and tell inspiring stories within this new era.
Photo: Andre D. Wagner-Freeman/Courtesy of Players
“I think the future lies in building brands, not just publications,” Roitfeld says. “You have to think 360 — editorial, digital, commerce and experiences. Media’s role is shifting from reporting culture to creating it, and that’s the space I want us to be in.”
Source: Fashionista.com