5000 Knows Its Way Around a Great Suit

When 5000 made its New York Fashion Week debut last season, even with its punkish attitude and gritty texture-blocking, any showgoer could clock that there was impeccable tailoring on display. For designer Taylor Thompson’s sophomore showing — and first runway! — he once again focused on this affinity for suiting (but a bit less punk, and, dare I say, even more impeccable).

For Fall 2025, the Oakland, Calif.-based designer was inspired by “Bootsy,” a Bay Area slang term that describes someone or something as awkward or uncool, outrageous or eccentric, or as a way to celebrate audacity and individuality.

“The etymology of ‘Bootsy’ also ties back to the term ‘bougie’ or the bourgeois, reflecting a critique of pretense and aspirations that feel disconnected from grassroots culture,” the show notes explained. “In this sense, ‘Bootsy’ critiques polished attempts at sophistication while simultaneously celebrating raw, authentic self-expression.”

The designer interpreted this by subverting classic tailoring with fun, unexpected twists: Shirt plackets are noticeably curved, draped tops feature jacket closures on the back, party ribbon strings replace a couple of neckties and pleated hoods billow into long skirts, creating a suit-dress hybrid. Even the slightly boxier suits that lean closest to traditional styles feature perfectly imperfect details, such as blazers with three pockets or subtly wrinkled fabric finishes.

Not to put any pressure on the Met Museum, but 5000 Fall’s 2025 collection gave a dose of the gala’s upcoming “Tailored For You” dress code if I do say so myself. Perhaps this could be a red carpet placement come the first Monday in May? (Ayo Edibiri? Colman Domingo? Doechii? Give Thompson a ring.)

See the 5000 Fall 2025 collection below.